Kojic acid, the skin-lightening and brightening ingredient which is derived naturally and is a byproduct of certain fermented foods, including Japanese sake, soy sauce, and rice wine, has amassed many fans. Its melanin-inhibiting capabilities make it a natural replacement for the synthetic skin lightener hydroquinone. First discovered in Japan in 1989, it has since been widely used in cosmetics, particularly in skin-lightening products. This increasingly popular ingredient has already made its way to many skincare routines. As a skin-lightening agent that's pretty strong, kojic acid's approved concentration to use for cosmetic products is only 1 per cent or less in countries like the UK and EU. Despite its miraculous benefits for the skin, there is strong evidence that a high concentration of this ingredient makes it an endocrine-disrupting chemical. In simple words – a high concentration of kojic acid may start to interfere with the body's hormones, so it must be wisely. Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, an aesthetic doctor and skin expert with over 10 years of experience, shares, "India also allows a maximum concentration of 1% in face and hand products, as stipulated in the Cosmetic Products (Restriction of Chemical Substances) (No. 2) Regulations 2024." Dr. Manjot Marwah, board-certified dermatologist and a renowned aesthetic injector in Jalandhar notes " In most skincare formulations, kojic acid can be found in its derivative forms like Kojic acid palmitate or isopalmitate. These are comparatively safer".
01What is so Special About Kojic Acid?
If you've been dealing with hyperpigmentation, dark spots, scars and uneven skin tone, then kojic acid is the answer you've been looking for. As a lightening agent, it functions by preventing the synthesis of melanin, the pigment that gives our skin its colour. It's also an antioxidant that works to protect the skin from environmental harm brought on by UV radiation and pollution. "The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel deemed kojic acid safe for cosmetic use at concentrations up to 1%. Furthermore, its anti-aging properties improve the look of aged skin. Its antimicrobial action combats acne-causing bacteria and treats fungal infections such as athlete's foot, yeast infections, and ringworm", shares Dr Gupta. This under-the-radar skincare superhero is garnering attention in 2024. India's leading celebrity and bridal makeup artist, Bianca Louzado shares that she loves kojic acid for her skin. "I've battled with hormonal acne and kojic acid has been a saviour with its gradual but definite results over time. It is a sure shot route to control acne and prevent breakouts." It's a gentle exfoliator that promotes skin cell turnover, contributing to a smoother radiant complexion. "But yes, always use sunscreen after as it can increase skin sensitivity to the sun", explains the makeup maestro.
02How Should You Use It?
Kojic acid can be found in various cosmetic formulations, including serums, masks, creams, soaps, cleansers and even powder. "If I had to choose, I would recommend serums for more effective results", shares Louzado. Serums typically have a higher concentration of active ingredients, allowing for deeper penetration and more noticeable results. They can be easily incorporated into your daily skincare routine and reap great benefits. By nature, kojic acid has a drying effect and can irritate the skin. Using it in serum can balance the drying effect as they can always be layered with other products like moisturisers and sunscreens. Louzado adds, "I love using kojic acid in face masks when travelling, as they are super lightweight and easy to use. They can provide a quick hydration boost. However, they do not deliver the same level of potency or consistent results quite like a serum."
03How Can You Incorporate Kojic Acid Into Your Skincare Routine?
Dr Gupta suggests limiting the use of kojic acid to 2-3 times per week if combining it with other exfoliants like glycolic acid. This would prevent over-exfoliation. "Avoid excessive application; overuse increases the risk of side effects. Apply only to hyperpigmented areas on the face, chest, or hands, keeping it away from the eyes, lips, and mouth." Loved by several dermatologists, Dr. Kiran Sethi, a board-certified dermatologist and India's leading expert in cosmetic dermatology also shares – "I find kojic acid to be a very safe ingredient and effective for more superficial pigmentation. Many patients swear by its efficacy." Its benefits extend to its application when prepping your skin for makeup. According to Louzado, you should start with your regular cleansing routine. Then apply 3 drops of kojic acid serum and gently massage it into the skin. "Focus on areas with hyperpigmentation or uneven skin tone." Finish off with a lightweight moisturiser to hydrate and do not forget to apply sunscreen. "Once the serum and moisturiser are well absorbed, proceed with your makeup routine. A well-prepped skin allows for long-lasting make-up." Before you stretch to buy this phenomenal ingredient, we recommend consulting your dermatologist to establish what works best for your skin. Regardless, always start with a patch test.
