Azelaic acid: the hero your sensitive skin's been waiting for. This gentle, multitasking ingredient is a game-changer for those who've been avoiding retinol or other actives due to fear of irritation. It's one of those rare ingredients that is safe for irritation-prone or redness-prone skin, while addressing multiple skin concerns like rosacea, pigmentation and acne. Two skin experts help us dive into why it deserves a spot on your shelf, and in your daily routine.
01What is azelaic acid and how’s it beneficial?
Dr. Kiran Sethi, a Delhi-based integrative aesthetic specialist and founder, Isya Aesthetics, describes azelaic acid as "a dicarboxylic acid made in the yeast on your skin, and in barley and rye. It is effective in reducing inflammation and rosacea. It also works for pigmentation and is a third line active for acne, especially inflammatory acne." Considering azelaic acid is one of the few that is tolerable by irritation-prone skin, it's one of the most universally effective active ingredients to also treat pigmentation. Dr. Jamuna Pai, a Mumbai-based cosmetic physician, author and founder, SkinLab, credits azelaic acid's increasing popularity to its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and skin-brightening properties. "It works by targeting acne-causing bacteria, clearing clogged pores, and gently exfoliating the skin, making it an effective treatment for acne and rosacea," says Dr. Pai. "Additionally, azelaic acid helps even out skin tone by reducing hyperpigmentation and preventing excess melanin production," she adds.
02How does an azelaic acid cream help treat rosacea and reduce redness on your face?
Both skin experts are fans of using azelaic acid to calm redness and rosacea. "Its anti-inflammatory properties help soothe the skin and calm irritation, making it a go-to treatment for managing rosacea flare-ups," says Dr. Pai. Dr. Sethi often recommends azelaic acid-based treatments to her patients. "Azelaic acid is very effective and one of my favourite actives for rosacea. I include this active ingredient in nearly every one of my [recommended] regimens, be it rosacea, acne or pigmentation."
03Is azelaic acid better than other popular active ingredients like retinol and salicylic acid?
Dr. Pai explains that azelaic acid is a gentler option, particularly for those with sensitive skin. While retinol boosts cell turnover and targets wrinkles, it can often cause dryness or irritation, especially in people with conditions like rosacea. Similarly, salicylic acid is effective for treating acne and unclogging pores but can be too drying for normal or dry skin. Azelaic acid, on the other hand, addresses acne, redness, and hyperpigmentation with minimal irritation, making it a versatile alternative for sensitive skin types.
04How much azelaic acid should you use to see real results?
"Azelaic acid in 10-20% formulations have the strongest efficacy and should be used once a day," says Dr. Sethi. If you haven't tried the active ingredient before, it's best to start with a low concentration. "While azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated, some people might experience mild irritation, dryness, or tingling when they first start using it," says Dr. Pai. "For sensitive or rosacea-prone skin, a lower concentration, around 10%, may be better tolerated, reducing the risk of irritation. Serums containing azelaic acid can also be combined with other hydrating or calming ingredients like niacinamide or hyaluronic acid to boost effectiveness," she adds. Incorporating azelaic acid into your skincare routine could be the gentle yet powerful solution your skin needs, especially if you struggle with rosacea, acne, or pigmentation. With its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and skin-brightening properties, it's a multitasking hero that works wonders without causing irritation. Just remember to start slow, use sunscreen, and watch as this wonder ingredient helps transform your skin over time.
